The south of the clouds, the direction of my heart. The peacock flies away and the memories are long. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain shines with silver light. Xiu Lijiang, people are on the road.
The southern part of the cloud, where to return. The past is fragrant, fluttering in the wind…
Whenever I work, I always think of these lyrics when I am bored. When I sing, I will have the urge to “go and go”. No, I went to Lijiang again!
About the author
All the way south wind, the whole network senior self-media people, domestic and foreign travel experience, hotel experience, hotel reviewer, WeChat: pcwli88, Weibo: all the way south wind
Preparation before the trip
Change clothes, an umbrella, a top hat, a bottle of anti-mosquito water, a set of sunscreen, a bottle of wind oil, a pair of sunglasses. One Nikon D7100, one Nikon 18-300MM lens, one Tuli 11-16MM lens, one Nikon D810, and one 24-70MM lens. Personal identification. One Huawei P9 mobile phone. A few cash, a bank card. Mobile phone stabilizers, etc.
The first day: After the afternoon, the city will play and return to Dayan Ancient City.
The next day: Depart to Dongba Valley in the morning, then visit Dongba Valley, Lover Lake, and hang around the ancient city of Dayan in the afternoon, 邂逅3200
Day 3: Fang Guoyu’s former residence
Su Lijiang One City House Inn
The beautiful city of Lashi
When I mentioned Yunnan tour, many people thought of Lijiang for the first time. For the majority of Chinese tourists, the weather here is really good, there is no cold in winter, no heat in summer, the most important point is that the pace of life is very slow, and living here feels comfortable. . However, there was a time when Lijiang had a lot of negative news, including Lashihai.
Lashihai is a plateau lake under the jurisdiction of Lijiang. The lake is 2,437 meters above sea level. The lake is clear and the coastal area is a wetland. It is a long-term lush vegetation. It is a tourist attraction for tourists. Unless there is extreme weather, there are many tourists every day. Rowing here, this project brings a steady stream of good business to the merchants on the shore.
The rowing boat package for online purchase of Lashihai is generally bundled with the ancient horse-horse road riding, as well as the steamed chicken dinner at noon or evening. Due to the comments and scoring mechanism of the online platform, there have been no major problems for so many years, at least When I experienced it personally two years ago, I felt good. There was no opaque pit person. Instead, a friend was not used to using the online shopping model because he was older and did not know the online market before he traveled. Lashihaicai and the pheasant merchants bargained, and they were squandered for more than a thousand dollars without knowing the market.
In fact, there are not a few people with similar experiences. In addition to the beating incident, the chaos of Lashihai charges has once become a hot spot for netizens.
In the past few years, what is the status quo of tourism in Lashihai?
In general, most of the businesses here are law-abiding. Many of the former pit tourists are often misled by pheasant guides. If you choose a regular travel agency or online sales platform, there is usually no problem.
In recent years, there has been almost no negative news about Lashihai. Recently, I went to Lashihai to play, did not experience horseback riding and other projects, and did not eat at the surrounding farms. It was just a photo, and the people here were still very polite.
In August, the weather in Lashihai was suddenly cloudy and cloudy, and the visual effects continued to change. It is said that the weather throughout the year is the same.
Under normal circumstances, the scenery is to Lashihai Wetland Park, you need to collect tickets, if you do not want to pay for the scenic spots, in fact, in the free area to walk around also have a good harvest.
The coastal area of Lashihai is full of wetlands, and some boats and grasses are particularly beautiful against the lake, especially when the green water plants, blue boats and white flowers are against each other.
When the city of Lashihai is clear and the wind is small, it can clearly reflect the mountains not far away, like the real version of the sky.
China has been developing tourism for so many years, and many places have been spit out. It can only be said that if you go out and have more eyes, you will not be deceived. After all, there are always people who have mixed water and fish.
Traveling with a peace of mind will yield a lot of unexpected beauty!
Fang Guoyu’s former residence
The last time I came to Dayan Ancient City, I passed through the gate of Mufu, and I saw a brand new building outside, which dispelled the idea of excursion. This time I came to think about it. Just had an online travel card, I ordered it one hour in advance. One, who knows that the online ticket can only be picked up after two hours of booking, and I arrived at 4 o’clock in the afternoon. It is meaningless to pick up the ticket. I have no choice but to return home. I then asked the local innkeeper, she told me. Saying, “There is nothing to see in Mufu, you might as well go to see Fang Guoyu’s former residence.”
After lettering to the proprietress, on the morning of the last day, I went to the celebrity mansion in the Lijiang population.
The former residence of Fang Guoyu is located at Wenzhi Lane, Wuyi Street, Dayan Old Town, just at the intersection of the slopes. The former residence does not charge tickets, but the flow of people in Mufu is much less than that of the refurbished antique building that charges 60 yuan. I remember that I passed through the front of the Mufu Gate twice, and the tourists who came and went could use the “people and the sea” to describe it. This aspect benefited from the effects of early propaganda and TV dramas, on the one hand from the bundle of travel agencies and the herd effect of tourists.
Fang Guoyu’s former residence is a typical Naxi architecture in northwestern Yunnan. It is a courtyard-style building with no external dew. However, if you look closely, you can see the fine parts. For example, the murals on the top of the wall are painted with various murals. Bamboo, flowers, birds, insects and calligraphy, especially the artistic conception of Chinese ink painting, and the architectural style of the Dali Bai people have similarities. It can be seen that these two ancient nationalities have had mutual influence in the historical process.
When Fang Guoyu was ten years old, his father passed away. His uncle taught him to grow up. When he was very young, he showed his talent in literature. When he grew up, he became a good historian. His contribution to national history was especially huge.
Fang Guoyu’s life is legendary. When he was a child, he did not understand Chinese. He could only interpret Chinese characters in the Naxi language. In 1924, he was admitted to the Beijing Normal University Foundation. However, a serious illness caused him to suspend his studies for two years. When he enrolled in the undergraduate course, he The ethos of the country is very hot. Fang Guoyu has a strong interest in local history and culture. His national sentiments and his natural interests have led him to delve deeper into this aspect and slowly develop into a whole.
Mr. Fang Guoyu’s life has gone through 80 Spring and Autumn Periods. He was a high life at the time. His life has been written in countless books. The “History of the Yi Nationality” and the History of the Han and Jin Dynasties are the most famous works of the world. The most respectable is During the outbreak of the Anti-Japanese War, he risked his life and personally went to the first-line battlefield investigation and interviewed and wrote the “Anti-Japanese War War of the West”.
Due to the age, the former residence of Mr. Fang Guoyu was once aging. The former residence complex that was seen now is the ancient city protection administration that spent more than 1 million yuan to repair it. Compared with the “new” of Mufu, Fang Guoyu’s former residence is old and old, and has a sense of history.
People who don’t like history feel that visiting celebrities’ old houses is very dull. In fact, the architectural patterns, details and furnishings of these former houses are very characteristic. Because Fang Guoyu’s old residence is in Lijiang, the Naxi ethnic customs are also not available in other places.
The former Fang Guoyu’s former residence, in addition to retaining the old-fashioned appearance, also introduces Mr.’s life with detailed information, and has many valuable collections and handwritings.
I am used to being busy, and when I want to stop, Lijiang is like a comfortable rest stop on a busy journey. Even when I am on vacation, I am still writing a manuscript.
Dayan Ancient City has different charms every hour. My favorite is the afternoon to evening time.
The curved stone road guides us forward, and the quaint houses on both sides silently tell the story of yesterday and the present.
The beautiful girl in the shop skillfully beats the tambourine and the beautiful music, and the puppy sleeps on the side of the road. The tourists on the road are not too slow, and it seems to be unintentional to talk to the store. This is the daily scenery of Lijiang.
It is said that the ancient city of Dayan is very prosperous. In fact, there are also quiet corners in the bustling streets. The so-called big hidden in the city is no more than this.
The slow time of Lijiang is naturally inseparable from the afternoon tea companion. Before I went to Dayan Ancient City, I heard that there was a red shop in the internet. The name was 叁仟二.
The second is in the middle of East Street, which is about the same distance from Dashui and Sifang Street. The store is divided into two floors. In front of the door are two growing willows, setting off the quaint buildings, especially the artistic conception. Produce a good feeling.
Especially like the decoration style of 3200, the retro color is simple and elegant, the light color and green tone make people feel like being in the beautiful tea garden.
I didn’t know why there was a trademark like 3200 at first, and I suddenly realized it after knowing the truth. It turns out that there is an ancient tea tree named “Jianxiu Tea Zu” in Fengqing County, Yunnan Province. It is said that it has a history of 3,200 years, and the name of 3200 will come.
At 3200, the product is tea, and it is a piece of history.
The decoration style on the second floor of the store is more like a petty leisure world.
Here, we see a lot of ancient Dongba characters and Dongba totems, in addition to elegant lanterns and decorative flowers of different shapes.
The sofas and seats in the second floor leisure area did not have a repeating design, looking up to the dome, several aircraft models attracted me to stop taking pictures.
After careful observation, I found that there are some ornamental munitions in other corners of the second floor. It is said that the Flying Tigers of General Chennard during the Second World War were repeatedly in danger with the Japanese invaders, and were rescued by the 3,200-year-old Jinxiu tea ancestors. .
The most creative and literary place on the second floor is the net red card area, holding a cup of tea. In this small flower world, the fixed picture is a fixed action of many tourists, and I naturally can’t be excused.
3200 has a lot of famous teas, black tea, Pu’er and other varieties of quality are very good, buy home to drink or give gifts are good choices, at least even my mother’s almost “tea for a living” Chaoshan old tea customers also praise Absolutely.
At 3200, you can’t miss the signature tea here.
Because it was just three o’clock in the afternoon, we called some snacks, and by the way, we called four cups of tea in one breath.
They are dirty milk tea, bizarre black tea, hump love snow and admiring mango, friends prefer exotic black tea and admiring mango, these two are tea and tea mixed tea, I like dirty Milk tea and hump love snow, as a signature tea, they are not only mellow, but also very thoughtful.
Delicious snacks, delicious teas, and an elegant environment make people want to leave when they sit down.
On the second floor, you can also admire the street view on the first floor and the ancient buildings opposite the Lion Rock.
The night view of Lion Rock is my favorite. It is fascinating and fascinating with the bustling East Street street scene, forming a beautiful picture.
At 9 o’clock in the evening, the handsome violinist pulled up the melodious violin on the first floor of the store, attracting many tourists to take pictures and record videos. It is said that people come to the scene to chase stars every night.
This artistic tonality of the 3200 is rarely seen in other tea-themed stores.
On the second day of the Dayan Ancient City, walk along Sifang Street from Shiban Road to Mufu. After passing through the square in front of the Spring Department Store, you will find that there is also a second, out of curiosity, to take forward the footsteps. Go in and find out.
The original spring department store is a new store. Although it sells something similar to the East Street store, the decoration style is completely different.
The East Street store incorporates more history and Dongba culture, and the Spring Department Store is a combination of fashion trends and classics.
The store is also divided into two floors. The first floor is the product display area and the on-site production area and the tasting area. The second floor is a pure leisure area. You can choose a quiet corner to drink tea while you are in a daze or reading a book. You can also find a street-facing area. Location, while drinking tea or black tea, Pu’er and other fragrant, while enjoying the street view downstairs.
Many of the decorations upstairs are made of wood, including wooden shelves, wooden floors, wooden tables, wooden stools and more.
The staff was very thoughtful when decorating, and each table was decorated with flowers, which made the whole floor full of literary tonality. I really want to sit here for a day, which is what a slow trip should look like.
It is worth mentioning that the store also provides a charging treasure box, which can be charged after scanning the QR code and pressing the prompt, which is very user-friendly.
Northwestern Yunnan is a casual and romantic place. In recent years, many newcomers have chosen to take wedding photos on this classic tourist route. Because of the beautiful scenery, Lashihai and Wuhu attract many lovers to take pictures, and many people take wedding photos here, and they have the nickname of “Lover Lake”.
However, it is called again, “Lover Lake” is only the nickname of Lashihai and Wuhu. There is a real Lover Lake in Lijiang. Many tourists said that they have never heard of it, and even some merchants who have been doing business for many years in the ancient city of Lijiang. I don’t know about it.
This Lover Lake in Lijiang is adjacent to Dongba Valley, along the small road in front of the Dongba secret gate to the direction of Yulong Snow Mountain.
Due to the proximity to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the magnificent scenery of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reflected in the lake, the name of the Lover Lake was added in front of the snow mountain.
In addition to the beautiful scenery of the mountains and lakes, the Snow Mountain Lover Lake also has a continuous grassland beside the lake. The grass is dotted with wildflowers and the unique tree species of the plateau.
In addition, there are several off-road vehicles that can be seen on the grass. It is not clear whether it is a prop for the wedding company. Blue sky and white clouds, Xiongshan Xiucao, red off-road vehicles are particularly conspicuous.
There are some horse farms on the shore of the Lover Lake, but there are very few tourists. We turned around half a lap and saw only five or six people riding.For the horse farms that do tourist business, Lashihai is their main business field, and for ordinary tourists, Xueshan Lover Lake is a new place name, they do not even have a concept of location, let alone help the business of the owner. .
Lover Lake is a long way from the ancient city of Dayan. The shortest route to drive is also about 18 kilometers. The driving time is less than 40 minutes. If you come from Shuhe, the distance is about 13 kilometers. Recently, the ancient town is Baisha. About 8.4 kilometers. If you come from Yulong Snow Mountain National Scenic Area, the distance is only 2.3 kilometers.
Despite the close proximity, travel agencies or self-guided tour guides rarely recommend visitors to this place to visit, and locals are rare.
At present, in many map software, it is impossible to locate the Lover Lake. The destination must be positioned as Dongba Valley or Dongba Secret. After the destination, ask the person.
The place where Lover Lake is located is relatively partial, the bus can’t be reached directly, but you can rent a car. If you live in a hotel next to the Dongba secret, you can walk. Of course, if you want to go deep into the hinterland, it is best to rent a car.
Compared to Wuhu and Lashihai, Lover Lake is more pocket-sized, but it is one of the most suitable places to enjoy the majestic appearance of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Perhaps you have seen the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in Dayan, Baisha and Shuhe, but only the Lover Lake and the surrounding Dongba secrets have a broader vision.
The mountains are high, the water is green, and the white clouds are rolling. Few places have a sense of grandeur and beauty.
The mountain presents a heroic temperament, and the water adds aura to the scenery.
The mountains and rivers blend together, making people think of the word heaven.
Lover Lake is an undeveloped secret, which is actually a good thing for tourists. If the development is mature, this natural beauty may disappear!
Dongba Valley with rich ethnic customs
There is also a scenic spot next to the secret of Lijiang Dongba. The people living in it are all “earth” people. This scenic spot is called Dongba Valley.
The so-called natives are the earliest indigenous-Nasi people in Lijiang. In addition, there are also Yi, Heliu, Pumi, Mosuo and Tibetan residents in the valley. These ethnic groups are very old and still retain their own culture, especially the Naxi people. They have their own Text, totem and various ritual cultures, including music
There is a tradesman’s street in Dongba Valley, which sells various ethnic handicrafts, which are woven by local residents. It’s quite remote, with little publicity, and it’s rare to find a guide on the Internet. So there are very few people. It’s a good thing for our tourists who like to take pictures, but for the locals living here, I’m afraid it’s hard to say good. Let’s go!
Maybe everything is just a matter of our own love.
The aunt of the weaving workshop got up early in the morning and looked at her skillful appearance. It should be a small exercise to do this delicate work. This is indeed the case.
Auntie tells us that women of her age are aware of weaving techniques from an early age, and at the same time can do all kinds of field work, which is a legacy left from the ancestors.
Relatively better than the Naxi women’s ability, Naxi men seem to bring literary temperament when they are born. They basically do not do farm work, and are responsible for reading books and various leisure and entertainment activities every day. Some people also do handicrafts.
The Dongba in Dongba Valley is written in the Naxi language as “priests”. This kind of activity is usually passed down by father and son or passed on by mentoring. The priests are the core figures of various religious activities. They have strong organizational skills and ability to host. He understands Dongbawen, Dongbajing, and ancient cultures such as dance and sculpture. In addition, he also knows astronomy and knows geography. He is the “energy” of the Naxi people.
In Dongba Valley, you can see a lot of mounds. These mounds are all circular structures. The mounds are covered with a layer of warp and the background is the magnificent Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Dongba Valley is a river valley that was torn apart during the mountain-building movement. It gathered the aura between the heavens and the earth, and wanted to come to the Naxi ancestors to fully consider the feng shui pattern when choosing a settlement.
On the small square facing the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain stands a large palm, reminiscent of the Buddha’s palm in the “Journey to the West”.
The world is vast, and there seems to be divine power in the midst of it. This kind of divine power actually comes from the imagination of the human heart. It should be the phrase “there is a Buddha in the heart, and the lotus is blooming everywhere.”
Lijiang Yichenglou Inn
This time I lived in the ancient city of Dayan, the inn is called a city tower. The name is very poetic. More importantly, the environment is elegant and the price is not expensive.
There are many courtyards in one city building. Each courtyard has two floors. The first floor is equipped with flowers such as bougainvillea. The store also has hundreds of pots of succulents in different corners to make the courtyard full of life.
Through the ladder next to the patio, you can go directly to the rooftop. Each roof has a different design. You can sit on the rooftop and enjoy the tea while sitting on the roof. You can also look at the ancient city of Dayan. The gathering of friends and friends is the most pleasant.
I especially like to live in this style of quaint courtyard, there is a feeling of crossing time and space.
There are flowers and plants in all corners of the courtyard, in addition to coffee tables, hanging chairs, beach chairs and so on. If you don’t go out to play, it is not bad to have a book here. Of course, the thing I prefer to do is to be in a daze.
There are ink paintings on the corners of the stairs, and some places on the balcony are beautiful, and the overall atmosphere here is relaxation.
In fact, slowness is the true meaning of vacation. There is no difference between rushing to punch in and go to work.
The staff was very attentive and told me a lot of things to note after checking in and provided some car rental information.
The room for this stay is located on the second floor of the inn, and the retro style is very ethnic.
Aircraft: Many cities across the country have flights to Lijiang Sanyi Airport
Train: Kunming has five daily trains to Lijiang, which is within nine and a half hours. The middle of the Kunli line passes through Dali.
Cars: Lijiang Bus Terminal has shuttle buses to major cities in Yunnan and some cities in Sichuan, such as Dali, Jianchuan, Kunming, Wuhu and Panzhihua.
Bus: If you fly to Lijiang Sanyi Airport, you can walk to the airport intersection and take bus No.27 to Zhaoqing Market Station, and walk 660 meters to Dayan Ancient City.
If you arrive at the Lijiang Bus Terminal by car, you can take the No. 11/Lijiang 15 Road a and 19 Road after getting off the bus, or go to the Sanjiacun Market Market Station and take the No. 31/30/32 Road to get off at Zhongyi Market. You can also take the 12th road and get off at Zhaoqing Market Station and walk to Dayan Ancient City.
If you arrive at Lijiang Railway Station by train, you can take bus No. 18 to get off at Bailong Square Station, or take the No. 4 train station to get off at Zhongyi Market Station, then walk to Dayan Ancient City.
There are two stores in the 3200, one in the middle of the East Street, close to the big waterwheel and Sifang Street, it is better to find, the other is in Guangyi Street, close to the Spring Department Store, and walk in the ancient city.
Dongba Valley and Lover Lake are close together. There is no direct bus service. It is recommended to take a taxi. Lijiang has many drivers who do carpooling business. The price is relatively reasonable. It is recommended to take a taxi during the day and it is safer.
There are 32 bus lines to the Lashi Resort near Lashihai, and the 31st road can get off at the Wetland Park Station.
The former residence of Fang Guoyu is at No. 32, Wuyi Street, and it is enough to take a walk.
Yichenglou Inn is located at No. 156, Wensheng Lane, Yishang Street, Gucheng District. It is close to the northeast entrance. If you take a taxi, you can ask the driver to drive to the northeast gate.
About ticket fees
Fang Guoyu’s former residence, Lover Lake and Lashihai are not for money, but Lashihai Wetland Park will charge 20 yuan for tickets, which is generally worth more.
If you go to Dongba Valley, the ticket is 30 yuan.
There are many foods in Lijiang. Laps ribs, snow mountain salmon, steam pot chicken and Dong goats are all good. The personal favorite is the wild mushroom chicken hot pot. The sweetness of wild mushrooms and chickens are combined with each other. The soup is very good!