Preface: The rivers and lakes in the eyes of Jia Zhangke, Shanxi under my lens
Before I came to Shanxi, the impression of Shanxi has always stayed in Jia Yuke’s movie. From “The Old Man of the Mountain River” to the recently released “Children of the Rivers and Lakes”, each of them is full of his deep affection and love for his hometown.
In the hometown of Shanxi in Jia’s lens, there are people who stand by the side of the road waiting for the bus; men who wear old suits and pull up their sleeves; there are noisy streets and broadcasts of constant propaganda policies; The whistling sound of the city…
He said, “I wanted to shoot the rivers and lakes very early. The rivers and lakes are my romantic world of imagination, and it is the world I have experienced.” Shanxi is the clearest river in the depths of Jia Zhangke’s memory. It is also what I always wanted to see. local.
When it comes to Shanxi, people always like to associate it with coal. After all, it is a big coal province in China, so naturally there will be some concerns, is the city flying? Unexpectedly, the Shanxi land in the early winter was a bit unreal, making me feel like I was in a colorful and whimsical fantasy.
Whether it is to listen to the history of a piece of dust in the ancient buildings of Jinci, or to taste the vicissitudes of the maiden, to experience the trend of “one husband is the key, the husband is not open”, the ancient Shanxi, the vicissitudes of five thousand years, this The magical land left too much precious wealth.
Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, which is also known as the “Three Great Chitas of the World” with the Italian Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Eiffel Tower of Paris. It is also the earliest existing wooden structure and high-rise building in China. It is unique and unparalleled in the world.
The Yungang Grottoes in the Jinbei Plateau, with 51,000 statues of stone carvings, are vivid and ready to go. In the face of the sacred statues carved in this millennium, I prayed devoutly one by one, and my heart meditation on the desire to approximate Zen.
The Hanging Temple is known as the “first scenic spot” in the 18th scenic spot of Hengshan. It is placed in a deep and secluded valley, embedded in the cliff wall, with high ceilings, curved reclining, plank road frame, corridor waist Back, only one person can be carefully passed.
Wutai Mountain is the first of the four famous Buddhist mountains in China. It is also the only Buddhist temple in China where the Qing Temple and the Huang Temple live together. The Wutai Mountain incense in the winter is still prosperous. In the temple, a believer who came to the Buddha from the Sidda Buddha College was met, and he was sincere and bowed.
Walking in Shanxi
Unspeakable human stories, endless dusty history;
Walking in Shanxi
Look at the five thousand years of wind and rain, read the style of Chinese civilization;
Walking in Shanxi
By illuminating the Buddha’s life, it overlooks the vastness of the world.
Jinci: Less than Jinci, I went to Taiyuan.
Less than Jinci,
I went to Taiyuan.
The epitome of history,
Can be found in Jinci,
You can find out in Jinci.
The millennium is like a dream,
The road is vivid.
The first stop of the first arrival in Taiyuan must be Jinci. The locals said: If you don’t go to Jinci and you go to Taiyuan, you can rely on this sentence. In November of Shanxi, it was colder than the south. Before I went out, I put on a down jacket. Fortunately, the weather was fine and it was very suitable for travel.
Jinci is the earliest extant royal garden in China, so after coming in, there is a sense of sight in the garden walk. There are dozens of ancient buildings in the temple, which are very traditional Chinese culture.
When it comes to the history of Jinci, it is necessary to start from the Western Zhou Dynasty when the young Cheng Ji is in the throne. One day, playing with his brother Ji Yun in the courtyard, picking up a piece of fallen paulownia leaves and cutting it into a jade form, saying: “Give this gui to you and seal you as a prince of the Tang Dynasty.” The emperor has no jokes, so his brother After the big, he came to the Tang Dynasty at that time, and “Historical Records” called this “cutting the Tong brother.”
After the 虞 虞 来 修 修 修 修 修 修 , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , After his son succeeded, because of the Jinshui in the territory, he changed the Tang country to the Jin State. People remember the merits of Ji Yun, and built a ancestral hall under this canyon to commemorate him. Later generations called Jinci.
The beauty of Jinci is beautiful in the mountains, beautiful trees and beautiful waters. There are more than 100 temples, halls, buildings, pavilions, pavilions, platforms, bridges and bridges in the towering ancient woods. The green water and blue waves circulate around the corridor, and the red wall and yellow tiles flash with the shadow of the trees. The long history of historical relics and the beautiful natural scenery are seamless, even in the winter, there is no sense of depression.
Walking in the park, there is a deep pool, a small channel here. There is a river under the bridge, a well in the pavilion, a stream on the side of the road, and a stream of veins between the stones. If the line is like a dragonfly, there are blue waves in the forest, such as Jin as satin.
Up to now, the ancient culture brought to us by the ancestors has been preserved here. The difficult old spring, the maid’s statue, and the Madonna are known as the “three goldens of Jinci”. The literati of the past dynasties will leave a mark on this. Up to now, the stone path of Jinci Mountain and the stone monument on the front of the gallery still have many celebrity titles. Some of the words are beautiful and the calligraphy is exquisite, which adds a lot of charm to the lake and mountains.
On the central axis of Jinci Scenic Spot in Yuefang, it was built in Wanli for four years, with beautiful shape and magnificent structure. This is written by Gao Yingyuan, a calligrapher of the Ming Dynasty. The two characters are the gold characters of the list, and the penpower is strong, just like a dragon.
The Temple of the Virgin is the main hall of the whole temple, which was built for the mother of Minhou. Built in the Song Tiansheng period, it was rebuilt in the first year of Song Chongning. It has a history of 880 years. There is a corridor outside the temple. It is the earliest example that can be found in ancient Chinese architecture.
The hall is seven wide and six deep, very spacious, but without a pillar. It turned out that the roof trusses were all supported by wooden pillars on the outer corridor. The pillars are slightly inward, and the four corners are high and form a cornice. The yellow-green glazed tiles on the roof are interlocked, and the Feige Liu Dan is far away.
The wood carving Panlong on the front pillar of the temple is the earliest existing Panlongdian column in China. Each of the eight dragons holds a large column, glaring at the claws, and the wind is born from the clouds. Although it is nearly a thousand years ago, it still has scales and layers, and it must be rooted. It must not be sighed by the goodness of wood and craftsmanship.
The Madonna of the Song Dynasty and the forty-two maids in the Song Dynasty are the treasures of the existing Song Dynasty in China. They can dress, sweep, or play music, dance and dance in different forms. The characters are full and handsome, the face is delicate and round, the eyes are focused, the clothes are smooth, and the ingenuity is not ordinary.
The fish marsh fly beam in front of the temple is a square lotus fish marsh, but a cross-shaped flying beam is placed on the marsh. The bridge surface is wide and wide, and the north and south wings are like. On the footbridge, you can feel free to go around, such as boating in the water, plus the fish and the waves, the red and the sun, the true music and forget. It is said that this cross-shaped bridge with a cross-shaped bridge is only one example in the existing ancient buildings in China.
The tree here is known for its ancient strength. There are two old trees, one for Zhou Bai and one for Tang. That week, the cypress, the trunk is straight, the bark is cracked, and the top of the crown is picking up a few green branches, lying on the stone steps, like the old man said ancient. That Tang Yan, waist thick and round, the branches of the branches, but the old dry but issued a cluster of soft strips, green leaves like a cover, the breeze swayed, a sentimental girl’s fairy fairy.
The architectural complex dominated by the Notre Dame also includes the temple, the archway, the bell and drum tower, the Jinrentai, the water mirror, etc., all of which are simple and beautiful in shape and exquisite in workmanship. In addition to this group of buildings, there are Chaoyang Cave, Santai Pavilion, Guandi Temple, Wenchang Palace, Shengyu Building, Jingqing Gate, etc., all of which are built on the mountain, or built on the blue waves. Or hidden in the shade.
The difficult old spring is commonly known as the “South China Sea Eye”. It is from the broken rock formation and floods all the year round. In the Northern Qi Dynasty, according to the “Yongxi Difficulty” sentence in the “Book of Songs”, it is called “Difficult Old Spring”. There is a pavilion on the spring. The pavilion hangs the words “Difficult Springs” written by Fushan, a scholar of the Qing Dynasty. When Li Bai came here, he once said: “Jinyi water is like jasper.” The source of Jinshui flows out from here and continues for many years.
There are only a hundred temples in the Jinci, such as temples, pavilions, and pavilions. The oldest Zhoubai has a tree age of 3,000 years. The construction and layout of its hundreds of ancient buildings exemplifies the traditional culture of the Chinese ancestral temple sacrifices. It is really shocking.
The companion sat in the sun under the square, simply took out the book and the brush, painted the Temple of the Virgin and the old tree, and the painting was completed in a short time, attracting many tourists to come onlookers. Travel, in addition to taking pictures and understanding history, painting is also a good way to record.
After spending a few hours in Jinci, the time was not long, but there was a feeling of walking through the millennium. I have heard such a sentence before coming to Shanxi: Chinese history, looking at Shenzhen for ten years, Shanghai for a hundred years, Beijing for a thousand years, Shaanxi for three thousand years, and Shanxi for five thousand years. At that time, some did not believe it, but the trip to Jinci made me have a new understanding and sentiment!
Niangziguan: When the husband is off, Wanfu Mokai
When the husband is off, Wanfu Mokai
Condescending, mountain and water
Ups and downs, spectacular
I don’t think many Chinese people don’t know the Niangziguan because it is a world. Its existing Guancheng was built in the Ming Dynasty, and it is opposite to the Jingguan Pass. It is a military heavy land. It is known as the ninth gateway of the Great Wall. It is a very important place for the dynasties.
The driver heard that we went to the Niangziguan, and I kindly reminded everyone to add more clothes, saying that the wind is big and it will be cold. Long journey in the afternoonI finally came to this place, and I am going to go to the west. I will go up and have a look.
Just entering the door, I saw a cute dog, always guarding the door, and the arrogant sense of a guard guard, we shot it, it did not run, quite fit.
The Niangzi Guangu Castle is surrounded by mountains and waters. It is built on the east and south gates and has a wall of about 650 meters. In the scenic area, there are more than ten scenic spots such as Chengtianzhai, Laojun Cave, Nuwa Nuwa, Beacon Tower, Dianjiangtai, Washbasin and Summer Building. It is said to be built during the garrison.
Come here, be sure to board the wall. It is said that during the time when she was a dean, the Princess Pingyang often did not leave her saddle. She did not leave her knife and was extremely brave. After she married General Chai Shao, she still did not forget the military life. She is a famous female Zhongyingjie in Chinese history. Niangziguan coexists with her English name and continues to this day.
The stairs to the wall are almost to be used by hands and feet to climb. It is quite steep. But when I go up, when I see the walls of the city, I feel very grateful. It is magnificent, and there is a husband who is off, Wanfu is not open. Potential.
The sunset is sprinkled with golden colors, and the walls are bathed in warm sunshine, telling every visitor the history of the year. There are many famous Guanzhong on the Great Wall, but only one place is named after the woman, which is the throat of the loess plateau and the North China Plain.
2. Pingyang Lake
There are many attractions around Niangziguan, which can be visited together, like Pingyang Lake, Great Falls and so on. Pingyang Lake is located in the valley section of the North Mianhe River in Niangziguan Village. It is in the shape of a gourd.The cliffs are towering and the lake is flowing with water, which is called “the first artificial lake in Sanjin”.
Pingyang Lake is 1.5 kilometers long and has a water depth of 3 meters. It is not long. It is made up of rubber dams. The lake falls from the dam surface into the lower reaches of the valley, forming a spectacular snowfall dam.
The best way to visit Pingyang Lake is by boat. During the walk, the cliffs on both sides are towering, the terrain is tortuous, the green grass is flying, the trees are smoked, the lakes and mountains are picturesque, and the unique charm of the Northland Jiangnan is displayed.
3. Floating people
The water family is one of the famous landscapes of Niangziguan, surrounded by mountains and flowing through the Mianhe River. Relying on Guan Yuan, the scenery is unobstructed, the miscellaneous trees are staggered, the stone houses and streams in the village are accompanied, the stone bridges pass through the streets, and the winding path is quiet.
In Guandong, there are two springs, Longquan and Zhangze Tuquan, which flow through the night, and after the two springs merge into a small stream, they go down the street along the slope, and the east is twisted west, and the family is transferred and cleared. It is now hidden, and it has achieved the natural scenery of “people live on the water, and the spring house flows down.”
The people on the water are a yard passed down by the Qing Dynasty. The villagers use water, rafters for the wheel, and stone for grinding, which is used to grind food and spices. The clear spring passes through the courtyard, the water is slightly warm, and even the winter water plants are still green and green, and the fish play in the clear water, making people forget to return.
4. Great Falls
On the land of the Central Plains, it is rare to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the waterfalls and the beautiful scenery of the springs. The groundwater source near the Niangziguan is extremely rich, and there are many springs. The waterfall near the hydropower station is also called the Shuiliandong Waterfall. It is one of the top ten waterfalls in China.
Looking for a quiet trail can go down to the Taohe River Valley, then look up at the Shuiliandong Waterfall, and see the waterfall just like a white practice floating from the sky and landing in the Taohe River Valley. In the process of falling, the waterfall suddenly slammed down, and sometimes it was blocked by the stone. The water and stone were violent, and there were countless waves, scattered everywhere, and thunderous sounds.
The misty gorge shrouded by the shisha cloud, under the sunlight, formed a colorful neon, across the canyon, beautiful and colorful. It is no wonder that Guo Moruo came to Shanxi to visit the Niangziguan and also made a poem:
The lady hangs the waterfall and flies into the valley.
The hustle and bustle of the earth, the stack of Chongshan railroad tracks.
Looking back at the steep sorrow and jasper, the backflow will see the absorption of Changhong.
Yingxian wooden tower: mysterious, unparalleled in the world
Ying County wooden tower, architectural treasure
After going through the sky, it stands tall
Mysterious, unparalleled in the world
The reason why I arrived in Yingxian County was mainly directed at the wooden tower. In Shanxi Province, which is known as the “Chinese Museum of Ancient Architecture”, more than 580 ancient towers have been discovered, of which the wooden tower of Ying County is the earliest in existence in China. The wooden-style pavilion-style high-rise building is unique and unparalleled in the world. Its status is very important.
Ying County The wooden tower was built in the second year of Liao Qingning, that is, the Northern Song Dynasty to the three years. Before the county, the wooden tower was able to climb. Later, due to the protection of the monuments, it was forbidden to enter, only to see its appearance, and how many Some regrets.
Even if you can’t enter, such an ancient tower, the light external ending is enough to be amazing. The whole tower is 67.31 meters high, the bottom layer is 30.27 meters in diameter, and the total weight is about 7,400 tons. It consists of three parts: tower base, tower body and tower brake. The tower base is divided into upper and lower layers, the lower layer is square and the upper layer is octagonal.
The tower plane is also octagonal, nine stories high, five bright layers, four dark layers, and the appearance is five layers and six layers. Tasha byThe base, the lotus, the phase wheel, the round light, the Yangyue, the Baogai, the Baozhu are composed, and the production is exquisite, which is in harmony with the tower body.
The wooden tower is unique in design and construction, and adopts a double-layered ring and space frame in the structure. The upper column foot is inserted on the rafter of the lower column head and is inwardly retracted to form a layer with a small and beautiful outline. The whole tower does not use an iron nail on the structure, and the components are bitten to each other.
There are 54 precious couplets on the tower. Among them, Ming Chengzu’s Zhu Rong’s “Bungee Gods” and Ming Wuzong’s Zhu Houzhao’s “The Wonders of the World” strokes are courageous and coherent, and are rare treasures.
In the millennium, other similar wooden towers were either destroyed by natural disasters or lost in man-made disasters. Only the county wooden towers were preserved in the world. More than 40 earthquakes, more than 200 shots and bombardments, numerous lightning strikes, strong earthquakes do not fall, shelling is not destroyed, lightning strikes do not burn, it is worthy of “China’s first wooden tower.”
Wutai Mountain: Borrowing Buddha Light, illuminating this life
Everything, in front of the Buddha, is not hidden.
I want to borrow a light from Buddha to illuminate the past and present.
“Mingshanzhi” contains: “Wutaishan Wufeng stands tall, higher than the cloud table, there is no forest on the top of the mountain, like the platform of the basement, so the Wutai.” Wutai Mountain is the first of the four famous Buddhist mountains in China, and the only temple in China. The Buddhist dojos that coexist.
The four famous Buddhist mountains, Putuo, Jiuhua, Emei, Wutai, I seem to have been in the front three, although I am not a Buddhist, but I always feel that I have a Buddhist edge. Thinking of coming to Shanxi, I can’t do anything about Wutai Mountain. Even if it is a long way away, I still have to negotiate with the tour guide to add Wutai Mountain.
The Wutai Mountain incense in the winter is still prosperous. In the temple, a believer who came to the Buddha from the Sidda Buddha College was met, and he was sincere and bowed. In fact, people live, coexist in good and evil, always need to have faith, rely on, or like a floating duckweed, no foundation, no direction.
Wutai Mountain There are 47 monasteries, 39 in Taichung, and 8 in Taiwai. Among them, there are many monasteries built in the temple, and many emperors come to visit the emperor. Famous Puhua Temple, Xiantong Temple, Tayuan Temple, Bodhisattva Top, Nanshan Temple, Guangji Temple, etc. Because of the tight time, we chose two temples to visit, and the first stop was the Puhua Temple.
As the dojo of Manjusri Bodhisattva, Wutai Mountain is not a mountain. It is a series of mountain peaks located on the “North China Ridge” with a total area of 2,837 square kilometers and a maximum altitude of 3061 meters. Five mountain peaks: Dongtai Wanghai Peak, Nantai Jinxiu Peak, Zhongtai Cuiyan Peak, Xitai Hangyue Peak, Beitai Yedoufeng surrounded the whole area, top without trees and flat and wide, just like the base of the earth, hence the name.
Puhua Temple is located at the foot of the east side of the Qingshui River. The temple is flat and the layout is strict and symmetrical. The temple is located east to west, mainly to the middle court. There are two layers of courtyard guards in the north and south, forming five courtyards side by side, and there are more than one hundred temple buildings.
The main hall of the temple is the main building of the temple. The temple is three wide, with a single mountain on the top of the mountain, and a gallery around the temple. The plaque of the “Daxiong Hall” is hung in the plaque. The time we went was still early, but the temple already had a mage in the Buddha.
The wooden vouchers between the front pillars of the treasure hall are hollowed out to engrave two dragon play beads. There are twelve grid fans in the column between the columns, the skirts are carved dragons, the upper part is the flower window, and the sills are painted with colored paintings. The arched arch between the bucket arch and the bucket arch is repainted. In general, the decoration of the Daxiong Hall is fine and gorgeous, which is different from other general buildings in the temple.
Up to the back of the Zangjing Pavilion, there is also a reclining Buddha, which is also a good place to view. Although Puhua Temple is a relatively young temple in Wutai Mountain, it is a place where people are well-rounded, and they are very talented.
The companion deliberately brought the image of the sage of the Longquan Temple, the image of the young monk and the Wutai Mountain.The temple is so over, let Xian 2 take us to visit the temple of Wutai Mountain!
From the Puhua Temple, we came to the central area of Wutai Mountain. There is a very strong Wuye Temple. Listening to the local people, the Five Lords are responsive, so the incense is all year round. I have never been able to squeeze into the crowd.
Because Wutai Mountain is the only Buddhist temple in China where the Temple of the Yellow Temple is co-located, the Temple of the Blue is the Buddhism of the Han Dynasty, and the Temple of the Yellow is the Tibetan Buddhism. So here we see the lama who came to the Buddha from Seda. He is very friendly. We talked and said that it has been a few days, and we are ready to return tomorrow.
According to the survey, the number of lamas practicing here has increased year by year, and there are almost 200 or so people, and among them, there are nearly 100 Mongolians and Tibetans, and the rest are Han Chinese lamas.
All the nations can get along well here, which shows that culture is borderless, regardless of nationality. Even if the things of their own beliefs are different, they can still coexist harmoniously. This is the result of an open culture.
Wuye Temple sits north to south and was founded in the Qing Dynasty. Into the Wuye Temple, the five lords who are enshrined are the honorary name of the Guangji Longwang Manjusri Bodhisattva, and the embodiment of the Wutai Mountain Wuding Manjusri Bodhisattva, which is the most popular temple in Wutai Mountain.
In Budala, Tibet, you can see such a scene every day. However, in China’s four famous Buddhist mountains, such worships are rare. We can not believe in Buddhism, but we must respect our faith.
Wuye punishes evil and promotes good, saves the people from the fire and the responsiveness. Therefore, there are many people who wish to make pilgrimages here. Usually in the morning on an empty stomach to Wuye Temple wish, the 15th or the first day of the lunar calendar can be burned at zero. In addition, depending on the season, I will go to the fragrance before 4:00 to 7:00 in the morning. It is said that a maximum of three wishes can be made, and a wish must be reconciled.
Whether it is Han Buddhism or Tibetan Buddhism, it is to educate people to be good. In fact, the silence is not in the mountains, nor in the temple. As long as there is a quiet heart, there are quiet places everywhere, and there are pure land everywhere.
One flower, one world, one leaf, one bodhi
Life is a practice, repairing is a heart
Put down your obsession and restore the true face of life.
Borrow a light of Buddha, illuminate this life, and go on a smooth road.
Hanging Temple: Plane Flyer, Gallery Back
Hanging temple, half a day high
Three ponytail aerial cranes
High ceiling, curved reclining
I have known the Hanging Temple very early, and I always wanted to have a chance to see it. When I came to Shanxi to arrange the route, I put the Hanging Temple and the Yungang Grottoes together. Because the two places are not too far apart, they are indispensable sights.
Suspended Temple is located in the cliffs of Cuiping Peak on the west side of Jinlong Gorge in Hengshan County. It is known as the hangover of the Hanging Temple, half a day high and three horsetails hanging in the air. It is famous for its steepness in the abyss. Because of the surrounding mountains, the temples in the canyon barely see the sun all the year round. Listening to the tour guide said that even in the longest season of sunshine, there are only two hours of light.
As the “first scenic spot” in the 18th scenic spot of Hengshan, the Hanging Temple was built in 491 AD and is the only unique temple in China where the Buddha, Taoism and Confucianism are the same. It is placed in a deep and secluded valley, embedded in the cliff wall, the floor is high hanging, the curve is reclining, the plank road frame, the corridor waist back, can only accommodate one person to pass carefully.
We arrived in the afternoon, but the temple can still be boarded. Walking with the companions of three or five people on a fairly narrow staircase, we must walk forward. The temple in front of us is like hanging on a cliff. It is hard to imagine How the ancients were built at the time was really incredible.
The whole temple seems to have only a dozen wooden pillars supported by thick bowls. The highest point is 50 meters from the ground. The two majestic three-story high-rise buildings on the top of the mountain are like volleys. They are hung on a knife-like cliff. On the three sides of the corridor, the six temples cross each other, the plank roads are flying, each connected, high and low.
Since ancient times, countless scholars have praised the Hanging Temple. The Qing Dynasty poet Deng Kejun once wrote in the poem of the Hanging Temple:
Shiping Qianli Li, the ancient temple is suspended in half.
The pure land is in a dusty environment.
One bay rocky month, half fresco in the Zen.
Looking down on pedestrians, it’s fascinating.
Standing in the Hanging Temple overlooking the Golden Dragon Canyon, taking advantage of the ancients’ good words, the Hanging Temple is even more spectacular!
Yungang Grottoes: A thousand years, a smile
When I read the Buddhist carvings of Yungang Grottoes
One thousand years, another thousand years
In the end, it’s not extraordinary, it’s not generous.
It’s the smile of every Buddha’s mouth that makes me realize
I am an out-and-out grotto fan, China’s four major grottoes, I went to three before, but the Yungang Grottoes have never had a chance to punch in cards. I think time will let me wait, I must have its deep meaning, this trip can finally As I wished, I was so excited that I stayed up all night except the night before.
A few years ago, Gansu self-driving, saw the Mogao Grottoes and the Maiji Mountain Grottoes. At that time, he was deeply infected by art and painting art. Later he went to Luoyang, and ran the Longmen Grottoes. This time, Yungang Grottoes, I believe. It will not be disappointing.
Entering the scenic spot, passing through the plaza, walking past a gatehouse, it is a very long and spectacular stone monument. On both sides of the avenue are neatly arranged with an elephant-based 10,000-foot Buddha monument, which is engraved with a meditation Buddha statue. These stone monuments are designed and built on the stone statues of a cave in the Yungang Grottoes.
It is said that 13 years ago, the Yungang Grottoes were not as spectacular as today. The local area was reorganized and maintained for five years. The current Yungang Grottoes area is already a mature and perfect spot.
Out of the protection of the grottoes, there are no-flying drones in the scenic area, and every place has security guards. I also hope that everyone can follow the precautions of the scenic spots and protect our world-class cultural heritage together.
Our itinerary is Jingjing Square, Foguang Avenue to Li Buddha embossed wall and then to Lingyan Temple (Shantang Water Temple). Finally, we will visit a group of caves more than one kilometer long. It takes two or three hours and finally takes the shuttle bus. Go back to the exit.
Such a trip schedule is relatively tight. If you have ample time, you can slowly walk around here for a day. Personally, every cave in Yungang Grottoes is worthy of your appreciation. Jian.
In the winter, the reeds floated, and the surface of the water was thick due to the low temperature. Although there are no crowds in the peak season, but standing in the cold and cold winds of winter, the Yungang Grottoes are more like a holy place, people step by step, and the heart is clear.
Passing through this gate is a group of caves that are more than a kilometer long. The statues of Yungang Grottoes are magnificent and rich in content. They are the crown of Chinese stone carving art in the 5th century AD and are known as the treasure house of ancient Chinese carving art.
The Shigu Cave in the first cave and the Hanquan Cave in the second cave are very similar. The original two caves are double caves, located at the eastern end of the Yungang Grottoes. In the center of a cave, two square columns are carved. The rear wall is like Maitreya. The four-walled Buddha statues are mostly weathered and denuded. The two sides of the south wall are carved with Vimo and Manjusri. The Buddha’s life story relief in the lower part of the east wall is relatively complete.
The center of the two caves is a square three-story tower column. Each floor is engraved with three pavilions-style Buddhist altars on all sides. The inner wall of the cave is also carved with five-story small towers. It is the image of the Northern Wei architecture.
According to the time of excavation, the Yungang Grottoes are divided into three phases: early, middle and late. The grotto styles of different periods also have their own characteristics. The early “five caves” were magnificent, with a rich and simple Western-style sentiment. The medium-term grottoes are famous for their fine carvings and decorative decorations. They show the complex and varied Northern Wei Dynasty art style.
Although the size of the late caverns is small, the characters are thin and beautiful, and the proportion is moderate. It is the model of the northern Chinese cave art and the source of the “skinny image”. In addition, the music and dance and the acrobatic carvings left in the grottoes were also the embodiment of the popular Buddhist thoughts and the reflection of the social life of the Northern Wei Dynasty.
The third cave is the largest grotto in Yungang. The front wall is about 25 meters high. It is translated into the translation hall, the front and back rooms of the cave, and a Maitreya cave in the middle of the upper part of the front chamber. tower.
On the west side of the south side of the back room, there are three statues with rounded faces, full muscles, fine corollas and smooth lines. The Buddha sits about 10 meters high and the two Buddha statues are 6.2 meters high. From the style and carving techniques of the three statues It may have been carved in the early Tang Dynasty.
The storm of 1,500 years, the 1500 years of right and wrong, and the scorpion of the Buddha, as always, clear, clear, and clear. The four Buddha statues on the north and south sides of the fourth cave, and the three Buddha statues in the east and west are the latest inscriptions in the Yungang Grottoes.
The fifth and sixth caves are a group of double caves. The caves are divided into front and rear rooms. The main image of the north wall of the back room is the Three Buddhas. The central sitting image is 17 meters high and is the largest Buddha statue in the Yungang Grottoes.
The walls of the cave are full of Buddha statues and Buddha statues. On both sides of the arch, two Buddhas are engraved on the Bodhi tree, and the top is embossed and beautiful. There are five four-story pavilions in front of the two caves. The existing buildings were rebuilt in the eighth year of Shunzhi in the early Qing Dynasty.
Originally thought that the mural paintings of Mogao Grottoes were shocking enough. I did not expect that the several caves of Yungang Grottoes were even more impressive. In addition to the colored statues, there were various vivid murals on the walls.
The dynasty on the stone, after years of screening, the heart is still pumping blood. Even if the splash of red dust, everything in front of the Buddha, but there is no secret. In the sacredness of this millennium sculpture, I prayed one by one in a sincere manner, and my heart meditation on the desire to approximate Zen.
The sixth cave, the plane of the cave is nearly square, and the center is a two-story square column connecting the top of the cave, about 15 meters high. The tower is called the Dalat, the statue is sitting on the south, the Buddha on the west, the statue on the north, and the Maitre on the east.
On the four sides of the tower and on both sides of the cave, and on the east, south and west walls and on both sides of the window, 33 pieces of Buddha-relief relief depicting Sakyamuni from birth to enlightenment are carved. This cave is magnificent in scale, rich in carvings and refined in technique. It is the most representative of Yungang Grottoes.
Here, you see the 51,000 stone carvings, lifelike, ready to go. They look at the same theme in a variety of poses. You see, all the statues are smiling and thinking, and the philosophers illuminate the walls.
Look closely, you will also find that many of the tops of the caves are embossed, lively, circling and dancing. Like the Eighth Cave, there are five six-armed peacocks on both sides of the cave, and the east side is engraved with three heads and eight arms riding a cow. The statue is extremely rare in Yungang.
From the 16th Cave to the 20th Cave, it is the first five caves to be built in Yungang Grottoes. It is commonly known as the “Five Caves.” The 16th Cave is oval in shape. In the middle of the main statue, the statue of Sakyamuni, 13.5 meters high, stands on the lotus seat, and there are thousands of Buddhas and Buddhist monks on the wall.
In the seventeenth cave, the main image is the Three Buddhas, and the middle is the statue of the Maitreya, which is 15.6 meters high. The east and west walls are carved, the east is a sitting image, and the west is a standing image. The 18th Grottoes, the neutral figure is as high as 15 meters, the right arm is exposed, wearing a thousand Buddhas, portrayed delicate, vivid and moving.
In the 19th Cave, the main image is the statue of the Three Worlds. The statue of Sakyamuni in the cave is 16.8 meters high and is the second largest image in the Yungang Grottoes. Outside the cave, two ear holes were cut out, each with a figure of 8 meters.
In the Twentyth Cave, the cave in front of the cave collapsed before the Liao Dynasty, and the statue was completely open. The statue is the three great Buddhas, the statue of Sakyamuni in the middle, 13.7 meters high. This statue of Buddha is full of face, wide shoulders, majestic and sturdy, and is the masterpiece of the sculpture art of Yungang Grottoes.
When I read the Buddhist carvings of Yungang Grottoes
One thousand years, another thousand years
In the end, it’s not extraordinary, it’s not generous.
It’s the smile of every Buddha’s mouth that makes me realize
In this trip, I met the Buddha and I got to know people again.
A kind of relaxation that has never been seen before, slowly waking up in my heart
Tail: Five thousand years of wind and rain, eight thousand miles of Yunlu
Walking in Shanxi, five thousand years of wind and rain, eight thousand miles of clouds
Listen to the history of the dusty buildings in an ancient building.
Look at the performances of one of the Jinshang Courtyards;
Standing at the foot of the lady, taste the glory and vicissitudes;
Leverage the Buddha light of Wutai Mountain to illuminate this life;
In the face of the statue of the millennium, piously bow down…
Through the millennium, you can discover the beauty of Shanxi, everywhere!
1. Traffic overview
There are many scenic spots in Shanxi, and the distance between the scenic spots is relatively far. If you want to visit the more famous scenic spots in Shanxi at one time, I suggest that you travel by car or take the plane train to Taiyuan, and then choose the right place to pick up the agency.
There are two railway stations in Taiyuan, which are not far from the urban area. They are Taiyuan Station and Taiyuan South Station. The South Station is newly built.The high-speed train is mainly to Taiyuan South. The old station has ordinary trains that are sent from the whole country to Taiyuan. If you don’t hurry, buy a green leather sleeper and you will be asleep.
Taiyuan Airport is also very close to the urban area, about ten kilometers, so when the ticket is suitable, it is recommended to take the plane. I will travel from Nanjing to Taiyuan for more than an hour, and the ticket is cheaper than the high-speed rail.
Breakfast: Qing and Yuan Mind
After the trip arrived in Taiyuan, because the spots I wanted to visit were scattered, we found a local pick-up agency to arrange, which saved us the trouble of revolving the car, and the tour guide explained the whole process for four days. From Taiyuan, the last stop to Datong, the itinerary is as follows:
DAY1: Nanjing – Taiyuan, afternoon visit Jinci
DAY2: Taiyuan – Niangziguan – Wutai Mountain
DAY3: Wutai Mountain – Ying County Wooden Pagoda – Hanging Temple
DAY4: Yungang Grottoes – Return
When I came to Taiyuan, I didn’t want to eat breakfast and Yuanjian. It was a local old name and the most distinctive food. The Qing and Yuan Mind is a non-thick and boring soup made from mutton, sheep marrow, distiller’s grains, noodles, glutinous roots, long yam, scutellaria, and Liang Jiang. It is also known as Bazhen Tang.
Taiyuan, there is no lack of food, in the variety of food, some from the transformation of inspiration, some from the precipitation of time, and some from the natural gift.
The reason why the “mind” is delicious is that the ingredients are the most important. The mutton must have the lamb meat of the year, which is even and fat; the yam must be Mianshan medicine, and the entrance is instant. The distiller’s grains are especially critical. It is necessary to brew soft yellow rice for half a month. Then come to a cage of mutton and simmered wheat, served with rice wine. In the winter morning, the stomach is warm immediately.
The old name of Taiyuan, in the change of the age and the changes of the years, some prosper still, and some are difficult to decline. Nowadays, walking into the “Qingheyuan”, eating the filial piety culture, eating the concept of health, eating the legacy of the old name, eating is the feelings of Taiyuan people.
Lunch: Wuyuan jelly
There are as many restaurants in Shanxi as there are foods, so we often have different restaurants during the trip. Even if we walk into a house randomly, the taste will not be bad, and each dish is big, so don’t worry about not eating enough.
Wuyuan Cool Powder is a special snack in Wuyuan County, Datong City, Shanxi Province, and it is regrettable to Wuyuan. It is made from potato starch, dried bean curd and broad bean. Wuyuan jelly is the representative of Datong jelly. Well-made Wuyuan The jelly is clear, smooth and refreshing, like the ribs of pigskin. Take it in your hand, “slippery”, eat in the mouth “cool silk”, unique flavor, called Beiyue a must.
Dinner: Shanxi Guild Hall
Shanxi’s noodles are simply amazing, noodles that can’t be said by various names, noodles, noodles, ramen noodles, noodles, noodles, etc. Anyway, I can’t tell which one is which, but the one with the deepest impression. The dinner was at the Shanxi Guild Hall.
Here is the Shanxi Pasta Museum. It is hard to imagine a place where you can hang so many ramen noodles. It is still a restaurant. Because the former man had also been to this recording, the popularity of the restaurant was quite strong.
There are more than 280 kinds of noodles in Shanxi. It is said that it can be eaten every day in a year. This is too scary. This museum, which can be eaten, has a local decoration. The hollow ramen is a must.
The Shanxi Guild Hall specializes in Jincai, and the large open kitchen is very intuitive to order and appreciate the chef’s exquisite cooking skills. This way is very popular with the public, and also allows us to feel the pasta culture of Shanxi at a close distance. .
Not only that, but also a large stage in the hall, there are wonderful performances every night, while watching the local special performances while enjoying the food, it is a good experience.
The characteristic songs and dances of Shanxi have been put on the stage, and the actors are also very dedicated. From the historical story of Shanxi to the performance of the Avalokitesvara, the show is wonderful.
In the meantime, there is also a part of interacting with the audience. With everyone to experience the local marriage customs in Shanxi, the audience is happy and happy, and they have a deeper understanding of the local culture.
What I have to mention is the Shanxi folk non-legacy performance of the second ghost wrestling. This is the traditional folk entertainment that has been circulated in Shanxi for hundreds of years. The performers recite the two ghost wrestling props and give the audience a comprehensive coordinated action through the legs, back and arms of the performers. The appearance of wrestling with two “ghosts” is mainly spread among the citizens of Xia and surrounding counties.
This performance requires a lot of physical strength, and the folk artists who are doing such non-genetic inheritance are over 60 years old. I really hope that more and more people can pass on this kind of folk art.
Choosing dishes in the open kitchen, every dish is so refined that I don’t know which one to eat, even the cold dishes are carefully crafted, and the dishes cover all the local characteristics.
Noodles, Abalone, Pingyao Beef, Over-oil, Pasta, Tofu, Grilled Lamb Chops, Noodles, Casserole, Enema, Cat Ear, Fried Meatballs, Vinegar, Copper Pot, Health Vinegar, Freshly Tofu, Baked Oh,Five Taiwanese leeks, Imperial City tofu, and rotten broccoli, each of the restaurant’s dishes are special.
Whether it is a southerner or a northerner, or a spicy Sichuanese, you can find your favorite taste here. When we went there, we were sitting opposite a table of Taiwanese tourists. They also praised the restaurant’s dishes. .
I am a native of southern China. I am also very tired of Shanxi cuisine. Before I went to Nanjing, I loved to eat Jinjiamen every time. I came to Shanxi to know that the most authentic dishes still have to be eaten locally.
Naturally, we ordered some local specialties, and ordered some leeks. The feelings are very large, and you can eat them with pasta. The speed of serving is very fast. Before the performance begins, the dishes are already on the same line, just watch and eat.
Meat is a must, especially 栲栳栳, it is the most favorite pasta of Shanxi people. Every restaurant here will have a dish. They are full of vegetables, and the wall that has been eaten this time is out.
4. Accommodation recommendation
To Taiyuan, we stayed at the Junyi Hotel, the standard of five-star, only 10-20 minutes drive from the airport and South Railway Station, the traffic is quiteConvenient, the rooms are large in size and the experience is quite comfortable.
The hotel has more than 400 high-end luxury and intelligent rooms, including Junyi Suite, Executive Suite, Deluxe Suite, Deluxe King Room, Superior Twin Room, etc. It also has a dedicated executive lounge with complete toiletries. Hours of hot water, breakfast is also very rich, it is recommended.
5. Shanxi specialty
Don’t come to Shanxi I don’t know, there are so many specialties in the local area. On the first day of Taiyuan, I had nothing to do with my friends. I went to visit a specialty supermarket. The special products inside were really shocked to me.
Buying and buying shopping is coming, I really want to take all the delicious food and drink. Bitter Health Tea I and my friends each bought a box, tea to drink healthy and warm stomach, very like the smell of buckwheat.
Shanxi’s vinegar is quite famous. I grew up in Jiangnan, grew up from Xiaohe and Zhenjiang vinegar. I saw that vinegar must bring a bottle back and taste it. Besides this gift box, there is a small bottle, I I bought a small bottle and went back.
Xiaomi, Camellia is also a local specialty. If you like to eat whole grains, don’t miss it. The whole grain here is really good. The taste of Camellia is a bit like the southern black sesame paste we used when we were young. Friends like it. I bought a few bags and went back to send friends.
In addition, mung bean cake, jujube cake and Pingyao beef have to be tasted. The characteristics of this supermarket are quite complete, and also support Alipay and WeChat, so we bought a lot.
Shanxi alcoholism, like to drink will definitely buy, after all, too famous, we a few girls, can only see, but the cakes, tea and coarse grains bought a lot, the local prices are touching, not expensive, if not the suitcase has been stuffed When I am full, I will definitely bring back a little more.
1. Shanxi November is already very cold. In the past, the southern part must bring thick clothes. The temperature difference between morning and evening is large, and some warm babys are also prepared.
2. The local climate is relatively dry, with a thermos cup, drink plenty of water, and more moisturizing, girls remember to apply a mask every day to sleep, afraid of sand with a mask.
3. The attractions of Shanxi are scattered. If you are free, you should study the trains in advance, don’t delay the trip, and find a place to contact the company.
4. Self-driving tourists should not let strangers take a ride for any reason. If you drive to Wutai Mountain, please pay attention to the slow line. The individual road sections are narrow, pay attention to the horns, and you must not slide in the air.
5. Winter Wutaishan 95% of hotels are closed, and only a few hotels are open for business. Therefore, there is little room for choice in the hotel, especially when there are few rooms available on weekends. To choose those large hotels, the occupancy rate is high and the heating supply is sufficient.
6. Datong The catering service time of the inner restaurant ends relatively early. It usually ends at 1 o’clock at noon and ends at 8 o’clock in the evening. Pay attention to the meal time while playing.
7. There are professional tour guides near Yungang Grottoes, and there are also explanations for renting. You need to pay a certain deposit. In the case of tour guides or commentators, you will visit Yungang Grottoes more deeply. In addition, the scenic tour buses need extra Paid.
8. In the county, the wooden tower and the Yungang Grottoes are forbidden to fly unmanned aerial vehicles. For the protection of ancient buildings, everyone must be sure.
Preface: The rivers and lakes in the eyes of Jia Zhangke, Shanxi under my lens